| Surfing is the only type of sport where the | | | | blowing over a long distance. That's what |
| person relies on the wave to pick them up and | | | | makes the swells travel until they hit the |
| for them to do tricks. Unlike body boarding | | | | beaches in which we surf today. Like when you |
| and kite surfing you have to stand up fast | | | | were to have a hurricane the wind would be |
| before the wave breaks on you so you can get | | | | blowing hard and fast out at sea but 50 to |
| down the line and do your tricks on the wave. | | | | 100 miles inshore the waves would be pounding |
| | | | the shores. Hurricane surf is good because |
| Surfing first had started way back in Hawaii | | | | you are like guaranteed good clean offshore |
| when Captain James cook was on the island. | | | | surf sometime or another when the hurricane |
| The boards they used back then were made from | | | | gets close. Other types of swells are ground |
| heavy thick wood so it made them hard to even | | | | swells which just pop up over night from a |
| paddle out. They were later made from other | | | | low pressure or something like that. Other |
| materials but not till way later when the | | | | than that waves are made from wind. |
| modern short board came into play. After the | | | | |
| short board came into the picture it changed | | | | You will see the difference between a surfer |
| surfing forever. Surfers could then use | | | | who can ride the wave and one who just can't |
| smaller boards but they would still float the | | | | catch the wave before it breaks. The one who |
| same way as the others. Except now they could | | | | can catch the wave before it breaks on them |
| catch waves fast and do tricks that they had | | | | and gets in front of the barrel of the wave |
| never done before. The boards allowed them to | | | | will be the one to show you how to surf. Like |
| get down the line faster then ever so they | | | | me I would drop into the face at an angle so |
| could do new aerial tricks. The airs first | | | | I would gain better speed so then when I |
| started in California and places like that | | | | stood up I would already have a good amount |
| then other surfers started to do the same | | | | of speed then I would do a few little pumps |
| tricks so they changed surfing like never | | | | down the line then do a huge lip slide or off |
| before. If you were to look at surf videos | | | | the lip. You are not limited to what you can |
| today and look at surfing videos from back in | | | | do on a wave when its chest to head high surf |
| the day like the 60s and 70s you will see the | | | | and walling up down the beach. All you do is |
| difference. | | | | catch it then speed down the line and perform |
| | | | some sick trick that gets everyone hooting |
| Swells and waves are created from wind | | | | and then paddle back out. |