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Scuba Diving Scapa Flow

The Orkney Islands, location of Scapa Flow awhich is now vertical at our side.Descending
natural harbour since the days of the Norseto the seabed we look up and the wreck is
invaders, more recently a base for the Royalsilhouetted in the greenyblue glow from
Navy, The final resting place for the remainsabove. Ascending slightly we set off along
of the German High Seas Fleet and thethe deck our torches picking out various
destination for this years Selby Aquanautsfeatures until, passing the anchor chain
diving  expedition.capstans we come to the muzzle of a 5.9" gun,
gliding along the barrel and round the
The story starts at the beginning of theprotective shield we come to the conning
twentieth century when Germany envious of thetower, the command centre when in battle, the
colonies of her European neighbours and theaccess door behind the conning tower is
wealth they are bringing decided to build amissing so we cautiously enter, disturbed
navy to match that of the British Royal Navy,silt threatens our vision so leaving we come
at the time the most powerful in the worldto the bridge where empty windows still look
and protector of the biggest empire the worldout for the battle that will never come.
has known. With the Royal Navy as her targetBeyond that broken rigging,sagging handrails
Germany started the first arms race of theand dangling wires attest to her age.
20th  century.Checking our computers and contents gauges 35
minutes later we decide that's it for this
The Royal Navy's policy at this time was todive and retrace our route to the line. The
be able to outfight and outgun the 2nd andsunlight shines down to meet us as we make
3rd navies in the world combined so no twoour ascent and after pausing at 6 metres for
countries could form an alliance to defeata safety stop we finally emerge into the
Britain and when Germany started theirmorning sun. James on the bridge is waiting
building  Britain  took  a  close  interest.to exchange O.K. signs with us and soon
Robert is coming to pick us up. Another great
Since Britain was always more of a maritimedive. Once everyone is back on board we're
nation than Germany the infrastructure was inoff to Lyness where the naval base used to be
place to build ships at will so this was ato visit the museum and have a bowl of soup
race Germany was destined to lose, especiallyin the NAAFI. By the time we return about an
when Britain brought out the first of a newhour and a half later James is just finishing
class of warship, "the Dreadnought" largercharging up our cylinders and Robert is flat
and more powerful than any war ship everout on the upper deck asleep in the sun.
built it gave its name to a new class ofWoken by our return he soon has James casting
ships.off  and  it's  away  to  our  second  dive.
As the great war started Germany's navalThe Second dive brings a choice of shallower
policy was to shell Eastern towns of Englanddives. There are the blockships sunk in the
to tempt the Royal Navy out and take them outsounds between the islands to keep out the U
individually. This policy never worked as,boats,both second and first world wars,a dive
Germany, always nervous of what was over theboat, bottle dives where the rubbish of years
horizon, tended to hit and run so the twohas been dumped over the side (I found a
powerful navies played a game of cat andglazed stoneware preserve jar similar to one
mouse around the North Sea, Each wanting toin the Stromness museum, others found an
meet in battle, but nervous of the power ofassortment of interesting old bottles) and
their adversaries, until May 1916. Boththe F2 a German escort boat similar to the
fleets were out in force when a DanishR.N. corvettes. This was taken in war
merchant ship steamed past on the horizen andreparation but sunk, believed to have sprung
both navies sent a detachment to investigate.a severe leak soon after and was not
The British ships were met by an outnumberingconsidered worth lifting. This is the one
force of the German "High Seas" fleet sowe'll choose. An interesting point of this
turned and lead the Germans in a runningwreck is that it was sold for salvage in 1968
battle onto the guns of the rapidly advancingand during salvage a gale blew up and the
dreadnoughts of the "Grand Fleet". Assalvage barge with all the salvaged parts
darkness fell neither side could claim awent down yet again. The wreck lies in only
definite victory. The Royal Navy had lost16 metres at high water and rises to within 7
more ships but this was down to lightermetres of the surface. The hull is broken in
armour to keep the ships faster and moretwo with the stern upright and the remainder
manouverable. Most of the German ships hadon its port side. We drop down onto the barge
sustained damage that would have sunk aand explore the salvaged parts for a while
British ship so come the morning the Germanthen follow the weed covered line to the F2
fleet had fled to harbour for repairs, manywhere we seem to be a source of interest to a
of  them  just  floating  hulks.number of wrasse about a foot long that
follow us around the wreck. Like all the
The following day the "Grand Fleet" was backwrecks it is covered with life. Apart from
at sea and the "High Seas Fleet" wasthe many types of fish we see the odd seal.
blockaded in port never to take to the seasThere are numerious specimens of the tiny
in  force  for  the  remainder  of  the  war.Devonshire cup coral, many types of anemone
including the large plumose, many types of
As the war came to an end the once proudstarfish including some huge sunstars over a
German navy was escorted to internment atfoot across and on all the overhangs and
Scapa Flow where in a final defiant act theysuperstructure grow dead men's fingers, a
scuttled 74 of their own ships. Some weresoft coral. There are also many sponges,sea
saved, others beached and during the 20's andsquirts and sea urchins and of course crabs,
early 30's a massive salvage operation tooklobsters and shellfish Many of the spider
part and many of the ships were salvaged forcrabs grow a garden of weed on their backs so
scrap, but, with the onset of the secondsometimes while near the seabed a clump of
world war this came to a stop, and then, inweed  suddenly  walks  away.
1945 when W.W.2 ended there was no shortage
of scrap iron so the remaining 14 ship wereAs we leave the break in the hull behind we
left  to  rest.need to ascend slightly to go over to the
other side to reach the superstructure where
The  Dive  Tripwe find the single mast laid on the seabed
the searchlight platform still recognisable.
Sailing South from our base at Stromness onThe forward gun is intact and the starboard
the mainland of Orkney we pass the broodinganchor chain leads out from the bow. Being a
high hills of Hoy on our right and as we headsmaller ship at shallower depth we are able
slightly east into the calm waters of Scapato cover the whole wreck in one dive and
Flow the islands part. In the distance we canstill find time to collect a bag of scallops
see the low mounds of Burray, Flotta,Holm,for tonights meal. Lovely fried in garlic
Fara and Ronaldsay. Hoy by the way got itsbutter.
name because it's the hoyest island in the
Orkneys, the Vikings either had a dry senseOther wrecks dived on the trip are Kronprinz
of humour or were not very imaginative withWilhelm, Karlsruhe, Koln, Dresden, Gobernador
name giving. It's a glorious day, the sunBories and the Tabarka. The latter being a
glistening on the blue green water ahead.blockship in Burra sound. Formerly a merchant
It's a forty minute trip out to the wreck weship she lies upside down and being in a
are diving today. There is no rush to get ourplace of strong tides is swept clean and
equipment together so during the next halfconsequently there is no silt inside to
hour the usual leg pulling and mickey takingdisturb. Plates are missing but the
goes on. During this time most of the diversconstruction seems sound so we enter. Passing
have brought their gear up from the dryingthrough the engine room torches are needed as
room where it was hung up last night and arewithout them it's pitch black. Three boilers
starting to assemble it. A number of jobslay in a row on the bottom and underneath one
need to be done, making sure you got a goodis a large lobster (tonights tea) While
air fill yesterday and for the majority ofChristine my buddy is trying to tease it out
divers aboard analysing the Nitrox fillI nipped the back of her leg, After she
(Nitrox is an oxygen enriched air which hasjumped I got a punch for my troubles. Passing
recently become the gas of choice for mostthrough the dark engine room we see two more
responsible and suitably qualified divers)torch beams coming towards us and two more
Because the boat was full of Yorkshire folkfrom our club pass by exchanging O.K.s on the
there was of course the tight wad who usedway.
air all week because it was free, my nitrox
bill for the week was £19.50 which IThis was the last dive and so with heavy
though was good value especially when ithearts and fond memories of a fantastic week
wasincreasing  my  diving  time by about 30%.of diving we head back to Stromness to pack
ready  for  the  long  drive  home  tomorrow.
We are diving on the "Brummer" today and with
ten minutes to go the skipper Robert shoutsIf you are inspired by the tale of our diving
down from the wheelhouse to galvanise us intotrip why not take a diving course and join us
action.on one of our many trips around Britain.
Contact John Hewitt. Master scuba diver
We arrive at the wreck site kitted up andtrainer on Selby 702487 and the adventure can
ready to go and as Robert slows down we stepbegin.
off into the water. The wreck is bouyed so
meeting my buddy at the bouy we exchangeThe club meets in the New Inn in Selby every
signals and begin our descent. Natural lightThursday evening if you would like to call in
fades as we go deeper until we see a darkfor  a  chat.
shape below in the gloom. Landing on the deck
along a row of empty portholes we exchangeThis article was written by John Hewitt a
O.K.signals, make adjustments to our bouyancyBS-AC and Padi Instructor, founding member of
and glide over the side. The Brummer lays onSelby Aquanauts and CEO of Red Hat Diving
her side and we intend finning along the deckequipment.



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