Scuba Diving Scapa Flow

The Orkney Islands, location of Scapa Flow a naturalvertical at our side.Descending to the seabed we look
harbour since the days of the Norse invaders, moreup and the wreck is silhouetted in the greenyblue
recently a base for the Royal Navy, The final restingglow from above. Ascending slightly we set off along
place for the remains of the German High Seas Fleetthe deck our torches picking out various features
and the destination for this years Selby Aquanautsuntil, passing the anchor chain capstans we come to
diving expedition.the muzzle of a 5.9" gun, gliding along the barrel and
The story starts at the beginning of the twentiethround the protective shield we come to the conning
century when Germany envious of the colonies oftower, the command centre when in battle, the
her European neighbours and the wealth they areaccess door behind the conning tower is missing so
bringing decided to build a navy to match that of thewe cautiously enter, disturbed silt threatens our vision
British Royal Navy, at the time the most powerful inso leaving we come to the bridge where empty
the world and protector of the biggest empire thewindows still look out for the battle that will never
world has known. With the Royal Navy as her targetcome. Beyond that broken rigging,sagging handrails
Germany started the first arms race of the 20thand dangling wires attest to her age. Checking our
century.computers and contents gauges 35 minutes later we
The Royal Navy's policy at this time was to be abledecide that's it for this dive and retrace our route to
to outfight and outgun the 2nd and 3rd navies in thethe line. The sunlight shines down to meet us as we
world combined so no two countries could form anmake our ascent and after pausing at 6 metres for a
alliance to defeat Britain and when Germany startedsafety stop we finally emerge into the morning sun.
their building Britain took a close interest.James on the bridge is waiting to exchange O.K. signs
Since Britain was always more of a maritime nationwith us and soon Robert is coming to pick us up.
than Germany the infrastructure was in place to buildAnother great dive. Once everyone is back on board
ships at will so this was a race Germany waswe're off to Lyness where the naval base used to
destined to lose, especially when Britain brought outbe to visit the museum and have a bowl of soup in
the first of a new class of warship, "thethe NAAFI. By the time we return about an hour and
Dreadnought" larger and more powerful than any wara half later James is just finishing charging up our
ship ever built it gave its name to a new class ofcylinders and Robert is flat out on the upper deck
ships.asleep in the sun. Woken by our return he soon has
As the great war started Germany's naval policy wasJames casting off and it's away to our second dive.
to shell Eastern towns of England to tempt the RoyalThe Second dive brings a choice of shallower dives.
Navy out and take them out individually. This policyThere are the blockships sunk in the sounds between
never worked as, Germany, always nervous of whatthe islands to keep out the U boats,both second and
was over the horizon, tended to hit and run so thefirst world wars,a dive boat, bottle dives where the
two powerful navies played a game of cat andrubbish of years has been dumped over the side (I
mouse around the North Sea, Each wanting to meetfound a glazed stoneware preserve jar similar to one
in battle, but nervous of the power of theirin the Stromness museum, others found an
adversaries, until May 1916. Both fleets were out inassortment of interesting old bottles) and the F2 a
force when a Danish merchant ship steamed past onGerman escort boat similar to the R.N. corvettes. This
the horizen and both navies sent a detachment towas taken in war reparation but sunk, believed to
investigate. The British ships were met by anhave sprung a severe leak soon after and was not
outnumbering force of the German "High Seas" fleetconsidered worth lifting. This is the one we'll choose.
so turned and lead the Germans in a running battleAn interesting point of this wreck is that it was sold
onto the guns of the rapidly advancing dreadnoughtsfor salvage in 1968 and during salvage a gale blew up
of the "Grand Fleet". As darkness fell neither sideand the salvage barge with all the salvaged parts
could claim a definite victory. The Royal Navy hadwent down yet again. The wreck lies in only 16
lost more ships but this was down to lighter armourmetres at high water and rises to within 7 metres of
to keep the ships faster and more manouverable.the surface. The hull is broken in two with the stern
Most of the German ships had sustained damageupright and the remainder on its port side. We drop
that would have sunk a British ship so come thedown onto the barge and explore the salvaged parts
morning the German fleet had fled to harbour forfor a while then follow the weed covered line to the
repairs, many of them just floating hulks.F2 where we seem to be a source of interest to a
The following day the "Grand Fleet" was back at seanumber of wrasse about a foot long that follow us
and the "High Seas Fleet" was blockaded in portaround the wreck. Like all the wrecks it is covered
never to take to the seas in force for the remainderwith life. Apart from the many types of fish we see
of the war.the odd seal. There are numerious specimens of the
As the war came to an end the once proud Germantiny Devonshire cup coral, many types of anemone
navy was escorted to internment at Scapa Flowincluding the large plumose, many types of starfish
where in a final defiant act they scuttled 74 of theirincluding some huge sunstars over a foot across and
own ships. Some were saved, others beached andon all the overhangs and superstructure grow dead
during the 20's and early 30's a massive salvagemen's fingers, a soft coral. There are also many
operation took part and many of the ships weresponges,sea squirts and sea urchins and of course
salvaged for scrap, but, with the onset of thecrabs, lobsters and shellfish Many of the spider crabs
second world war this came to a stop, and then, ingrow a garden of weed on their backs so sometimes
1945 when W.W.2 ended there was no shortage ofwhile near the seabed a clump of weed suddenly
scrap iron so the remaining 14 ship were left to rest.walks away.
The Dive TripAs we leave the break in the hull behind we need to
Sailing South from our base at Stromness on theascend slightly to go over to the other side to reach
mainland of Orkney we pass the brooding high hills ofthe superstructure where we find the single mast laid
Hoy on our right and as we head slightly east intoon the seabed the searchlight platform still
the calm waters of Scapa Flow the islands part. Inrecognisable. The forward gun is intact and the
the distance we can see the low mounds of Burray,starboard anchor chain leads out from the bow. Being
Flotta,Holm, Fara and Ronaldsay. Hoy by the way gota smaller ship at shallower depth we are able to
its name because it's the hoyest island in thecover the whole wreck in one dive and still find time
Orkneys, the Vikings either had a dry sense ofto collect a bag of scallops for tonights meal. Lovely
humour or were not very imaginative with namefried in garlic butter.
giving. It's a glorious day, the sun glistening on theOther wrecks dived on the trip are Kronprinz Wilhelm,
blue green water ahead. It's a forty minute trip outKarlsruhe, Koln, Dresden, Gobernador Bories and the
to the wreck we are diving today. There is no rushTabarka. The latter being a blockship in Burra sound.
to get our equipment together so during the nextFormerly a merchant ship she lies upside down and
half hour the usual leg pulling and mickey taking goesbeing in a place of strong tides is swept clean and
on. During this time most of the divers have broughtconsequently there is no silt inside to disturb. Plates
their gear up from the drying room where it wasare missing but the construction seems sound so we
hung up last night and are starting to assemble it. Aenter. Passing through the engine room torches are
number of jobs need to be done, making sure youneeded as without them it's pitch black. Three boilers
got a good air fill yesterday and for the majority oflay in a row on the bottom and underneath one is a
divers aboard analysing the Nitrox fill (Nitrox is anlarge lobster (tonights tea) While Christine my buddy
oxygen enriched air which has recently become theis trying to tease it out I nipped the back of her leg,
gas of choice for most responsible and suitablyAfter she jumped I got a punch for my troubles.
qualified divers) Because the boat was full ofPassing through the dark engine room we see two
Yorkshire folk there was of course the tight wadmore torch beams coming towards us and two more
who used air all week because it was free, my nitroxfrom our club pass by exchanging O.K.s on the way.
bill for the week was £19.50 which I though wasThis was the last dive and so with heavy hearts and
good value especially when it wasincreasing my divingfond memories of a fantastic week of diving we
time by about 30%.head back to Stromness to pack ready for the long
We are diving on the "Brummer" today and with tendrive home tomorrow.
minutes to go the skipper Robert shouts down fromIf you are inspired by the tale of our diving trip why
the wheelhouse to galvanise us into action.not take a diving course and join us on one of our
We arrive at the wreck site kitted up and ready tomany trips around Britain. Contact John Hewitt.
go and as Robert slows down we step off into theMaster scuba diver trainer on Selby 702487 and the
water. The wreck is bouyed so meeting my buddyadventure can begin.
at the bouy we exchange signals and begin ourThe club meets in the New Inn in Selby every
descent. Natural light fades as we go deeper until weThursday evening if you would like to call in for a
see a dark shape below in the gloom. Landing on thechat.
deck along a row of empty portholes we exchangeThis article was written by John Hewitt a BS-AC and
O.K.signals, make adjustments to our bouyancy andPadi Instructor, founding member of Selby Aquanauts
glide over the side. The Brummer lays on her sideand CEO of Red Hat Diving equipment.
and we intend finning along the deck which is now