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Cruise on Halong Bay, Vietnam

When it comes to weekend getaways, you Vietnamese army stopped the Chinese from
just can't beat flopping around on the landing. Also in 1288 General Tran Hung
deck of a junk in Halong bay, says Duc Dao stopped Mongol ships from sailing up
Hanh the nearby Bach Dang River by placing
At 11.30 am, the sun is high in the sky steel-tipped wooden stakes at high tide,
and burning bright. At the pier countless sinking the Mongol Kublai Khan's fleet.
wooden junks, sailboats, speedboats and Of course, the legend is that a slew of
tiny bamboo boats bob around. While tour dragons spat out jewels and jade into the
guides try to organise how to get their sea. These jewels turned into the islands
groups on board, we sit with our bags in and islets that are dotted around the
hand, ready to test out our sea legs. bay, which could be linked together to
"Which one is ours?" says a fellow form barriers against would-be invaders.
traveler on my tour a tad impatiently. It's easy to see why residents of Halong
After a four-hour-stint in the van from would have conjured up such legends to
Hanoi, everybody is understandably explain the supreme scenery.
itching to kick back and feel the sea Understandably, after our mini-hike a
breeze on board. thirst is upon the travelling party! We
Just then a speedboat arrives with a clamber back on board for a few
flourish and we pile on board before sundowners with beers and cocktails all
zooming off to the Indochina Sail, a round. The sun drops behind the
large, handsome junk that the captain surrounding islands as we sit in the
proudly announces is 40 metres long and dwindling twilight.
8.5 meters wide - and indeed it seems a Heading back to my cabin to shower and
fine, seaworthy vessel to me. change for dinner, I'm fairly surprised
In my time I've been on board a few of to discover a royal costume laid out for
the bay's shabbier junks. It is one point me. A card reads: "For tonight's Royal
worth making: when it comes to visiting banquet."
Halong Bay it's worth treating yourself. Slightly tipsy, I happily oblige. It's
Thankfully there's more than a few classy only when I arrive up on deck for the BBQ
junks to choose from these days. dinner I realise that the costume is a
Walking around on board the Indochina rather baggy and my hat fairly
Sail, I discover a restaurant, the cumbersome, still I manage to move around
Indochina Sail Bar, a gift shop and even and fill my plate. A Japanese tourist,
a library. Guests can also avail of Megumi Katsu is more taken by her new
binoculars, snorkeling equipment or look - "This is the most fun I have had
top-of-the-line Canadian made kayaks. on my holidays yet!"
With a grand view ahead, I tentatively At night in the bay is magical. A canopy
start with the binoculars. Most of my of glittering stars above us, a
fellow travellers are content to flop refreshing coolness in the air - it is
around the deck, sipping drinks, pure bliss just to sit around with the
surveying the scene or catching a bit of other travelers, your friends or partner.
sun. A trip to Halong is first and Conversation is optional.
foremost about relaxing! Chris Wedlake and his wife, both looking
Sun-shy, I stretch out on a lie-low on positively regal, are on their honeymoon.
the more shaded lower deck and listen to "It's an earthly paradise for a couple of
the buffeting breeze and the sound of the newly weds!" So smitten with Halong, he
boat chopping through the waves. Time and his wife says they'd come back for
passes and I happily doze a little in the their anniversary every year if they
salty air. could.
However, a call for lunch stirs me right Traditional Vietnamese melodies hang in
out of my light slumber. A five-course the air. The boat gently rocks. A few of
lunch is devoured by the hungry guests. the staff invite guests to fish for
We hadn't even worked up an appetite. cuttlefish. But my eyes are heavy and I
Afterwards, I fight the urge to have a slip away to my cabin promising myself
siesta and head out onto the deck as the I'll rise with the dawn - someone
boat floats into Bai Tu Long Bay. We drop mentions morning tai chi exercises on the
anchor at Soi Sim island, famed for its top deck and I nod in enthusiastic
rose myrtle brush. agreement.
The island sits in clear, blue waters and But when I wake the sun is already up. I
is also home to white sandy beaches. A hear the voices of vendors who have rowed
member of the crew asks if anyone wants up to our junk to sell snacks, seafood,
to swim but we're already in our trunks souvenirs and cigarettes. I stumble
and bathing suits ready to dive in. upstairs and discover guests still there
Afterwards, we head ashore and climb to from the night before - each one chose to
the summit of the island which offers yet sleep on deck in the open air rather than
another idyllic setting. Although Halong spending the night in their cabin.
is a large area with over 1,900 limestone A smell of fresh coffee is in the air as
islets and a 120-km coastline, when you the boat pulls away; the crew informs us
get in amongst the islets it seems more of our itinerary for the morning, but all
intimate than grand. of the passengers just reply with sleepy
The random scattering of islets meant the smiles. We are already under Halong Bay's
bay had its defensive advantages in the spell. No one really minds where we go
past. On three occasions in the labyrinth next, anyway, you can't take a wrong turn
of channels near the islands the while cruising in Halong Bay.




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