| When it comes to weekend getaways, you | | | | from landing. Also in 1288 General Tran |
| just can't beat flopping around on the | | | | Hung Dao stopped Mongol ships from |
| deck of a junk in Halong bay, says Duc | | | | sailing up the nearby Bach Dang River by |
| Hanh | | | | placing steel-tipped wooden stakes at |
| At 11.30 am, the sun is high in the sky | | | | high tide, sinking the Mongol Kublai |
| and burning bright. At the pier | | | | Khan's fleet. Of course, the legend is |
| countless wooden junks, sailboats, | | | | that a slew of dragons spat out jewels |
| speedboats and tiny bamboo boats bob | | | | and jade into the sea. These jewels |
| around. While tour guides try to | | | | turned into the islands and islets that |
| organise how to get their groups on | | | | are dotted around the bay, which could |
| board, we sit with our bags in hand, | | | | be linked together to form barriers |
| ready to test out our sea legs. | | | | against would-be invaders. |
| "Which one is ours?" says a fellow | | | | It's easy to see why residents of Halong |
| traveler on my tour a tad impatiently. | | | | would have conjured up such legends to |
| After a four-hour-stint in the van from | | | | explain the supreme scenery. |
| Hanoi, everybody is understandably | | | | Understandably, after our mini-hike a |
| itching to kick back and feel the sea | | | | thirst is upon the travelling party! We |
| breeze on board. | | | | clamber back on board for a few |
| Just then a speedboat arrives with a | | | | sundowners with beers and cocktails all |
| flourish and we pile on board before | | | | round. The sun drops behind the |
| zooming off to the Indochina Sail, a | | | | surrounding islands as we sit in the |
| large, handsome junk that the captain | | | | dwindling twilight. |
| proudly announces is 40 metres long and | | | | Heading back to my cabin to shower and |
| 8.5 meters wide - and indeed it seems a | | | | change for dinner, I'm fairly surprised |
| fine, seaworthy vessel to me. | | | | to discover a royal costume laid out for |
| In my time I've been on board a few of | | | | me. A card reads: "For tonight's Royal |
| the bay's shabbier junks. It is one | | | | banquet." |
| point worth making: when it comes to | | | | Slightly tipsy, I happily oblige. It's |
| visiting Halong Bay it's worth treating | | | | only when I arrive up on deck for the |
| yourself. Thankfully there's more than a | | | | BBQ dinner I realise that the costume is |
| few classy junks to choose from these | | | | a rather baggy and my hat fairly |
| days. | | | | cumbersome, still I manage to move |
| Walking around on board the Indochina | | | | around and fill my plate. A Japanese |
| Sail, I discover a restaurant, the | | | | tourist, Megumi Katsu is more taken by |
| Indochina Sail Bar, a gift shop and even | | | | her new look - "This is the most fun I |
| a library. Guests can also avail of | | | | have had on my holidays yet!" |
| binoculars, snorkeling equipment or | | | | At night in the bay is magical. A canopy |
| top-of-the-line Canadian made kayaks. | | | | of glittering stars above us, a |
| With a grand view ahead, I tentatively | | | | refreshing coolness in the air - it is |
| start with the binoculars. Most of my | | | | pure bliss just to sit around with the |
| fellow travellers are content to flop | | | | other travelers, your friends or |
| around the deck, sipping drinks, | | | | partner. Conversation is optional. |
| surveying the scene or catching a bit of | | | | Chris Wedlake and his wife, both looking |
| sun. A trip to Halong is first and | | | | positively regal, are on their |
| foremost about relaxing! | | | | honeymoon. "It's an earthly paradise for |
| Sun-shy, I stretch out on a lie-low on | | | | a couple of newly weds!" So smitten with |
| the more shaded lower deck and listen to | | | | Halong, he and his wife says they'd come |
| the buffeting breeze and the sound of | | | | back for their anniversary every year if |
| the boat chopping through the waves. | | | | they could. |
| Time passes and I happily doze a little | | | | Traditional Vietnamese melodies hang in |
| in the salty air. | | | | the air. The boat gently rocks. A few of |
| However, a call for lunch stirs me right | | | | the staff invite guests to fish for |
| out of my light slumber. A five-course | | | | cuttlefish. But my eyes are heavy and I |
| lunch is devoured by the hungry guests. | | | | slip away to my cabin promising myself |
| We hadn't even worked up an appetite. | | | | I'll rise with the dawn - someone |
| Afterwards, I fight the urge to have a | | | | mentions morning tai chi exercises on |
| siesta and head out onto the deck as the | | | | the top deck and I nod in enthusiastic |
| boat floats into Bai Tu Long Bay. We | | | | agreement. |
| drop anchor at Soi Sim island, famed for | | | | But when I wake the sun is already up. I |
| its rose myrtle brush. | | | | hear the voices of vendors who have |
| The island sits in clear, blue waters | | | | rowed up to our junk to sell snacks, |
| and is also home to white sandy beaches. | | | | seafood, souvenirs and cigarettes. I |
| A member of the crew asks if anyone | | | | stumble upstairs and discover guests |
| wants to swim but we're already in our | | | | still there from the night before - each |
| trunks and bathing suits ready to dive | | | | one chose to sleep on deck in the open |
| in. Afterwards, we head ashore and climb | | | | air rather than spending the night in |
| to the summit of the island which offers | | | | their cabin. |
| yet another idyllic setting. Although | | | | A smell of fresh coffee is in the air as |
| Halong is a large area with over 1,900 | | | | the boat pulls away; the crew informs us |
| limestone islets and a 120-km coastline, | | | | of our itinerary for the morning, but |
| when you get in amongst the islets it | | | | all of the passengers just reply with |
| seems more intimate than grand. | | | | sleepy smiles. We are already under |
| The random scattering of islets meant | | | | Halong Bay's spell. No one really minds |
| the bay had its defensive advantages in | | | | where we go next, anyway, you can't take |
| the past. On three occasions in the | | | | a wrong turn while cruising in Halong |
| labyrinth of channels near the islands | | | | Bay. |
| the Vietnamese army stopped the Chinese | | | | |